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The enzyme 11β-HSD1 plays a crucial role in the tissue-specific regulation of cortisol levels and it has been associated with various diseases. Inhibition of 11β-HSD1 is an attractive intervention strategy and the discovery of novel selective 11β-HSD1 inhibitors is of high relevance. In this study, we identified and evaluated a new series of selective peptide 11β-HSD1 inhibitors with potential for skin care applications. This novel scaffold was designed with the aid of molecular modeling and two previously reported inhibitors. SAR optimization yielded highly active peptides (IC; 50; below 400 nM) that were inactive at 1 µM concentration against structurally related enzymes (11β-HSD2, 17β-HSD1 and 17β-HSD2). The best performing peptides inhibited the conversion of cortisone into cortisol in primary human keratinocytes and the most active compound, 5d, was further shown to reverse cortisone-induced collagen damage in human ex-vivo tissue.
